Saturday, August 24, 2013

Day 50: Cooper Lodge Shelter to Greenwall Shelter

Today's Miles: 18.9
Total Miles: 513.5

It's great to wake up to a warmer morning than what was expected. It was really chilly last night, and since the shelter's windows were all open I thought it'd be a little cooler at almost 4000 feet. I started getting ready, and when the group of new backpackers woke up they were happy to realize they had survived their first night in the woods. I headed out around 7:00, which seems to be making itself my approximate starting time each day. 

The day started with a descent which proved to be a little bit rocky. It was pretty gradual, so it wasn't too bad. When I reached the first shelter I decided to stop in for a snack break. Taped to the inside of the shelter register was a picture of 2 hikers in front of the Governor Clement shelter. The picture wasn't dated, but there wasn't a single tree to be found. Now the area is surrounded by trees. I thought it was really neat to see what a difference it is. There was a part of the trail just ahead that had signs for a detour around the brook whose bridge was washed out in Hurricane Irene. I was told by several NOBOs that it was still rock hoppable, so I decided to try my luck. It was a pretty easy crossing, and I was glad I decided to go that way, especially because I was able to see the 500 mile marker! It feels a little unreal, honestly. The damage from the storm was very evident further downstream. There were a lot of downed trees all along the banks, and at one point there was a giant pile of dead trees and wood from the bridge blocking the way. There was another brook shortly after that had two very awkwardly placed logs that I'm assuming were in place to assist with crossing. I decided to move a little downstream and hop some rocks there instead since I'm pretty sure any attempt to use the logs would have been disastrous. 

I passed a road crossing a few more miles up where there was a man on a bike and a woman asking if I was SOBO and if I knew anything about the detour. I would later learn that their names were Laura and Graham. I was a little confused by the situation at first, not really sure why a bicyclist would be asking me that, so I was probably a little bit colder than I needed to be. I'm just a little wary of road crossings anyway, so I hope it was understandable. It turned out to be a couple from the UK, and the female was going to be hiking to the next road crossing. She asked if I would mind hiking together, and I gladly agreed to the company. She and her husband were SOBOs, but her husband was injured so they chose to do road walks together where they could so he could pedal along. They were slackpacking most of it and had an RV meeting them after certain sections. We hiked the next 4 miles together, and she invited me to lunch with them. I happily accepted since I told myself I could go to the restaurant a half mile down the road if I was there by lunch. They saved me an extra mile of walking, and I got to enjoy their company while there. It was interesting to see how they learned about the AT. They had allotted themselves 4 months to complete it. They had done various other backpacking trips in Europe before starting this one. Laura said that walking is an accepted part of life in the UK, which I think is so different than the states. She did say that the hikers out here take it very seriously, which is not so much the case there. It's much more casual. 

Lunch was incredible. I was able to enjoy a great salad, a hard boiled egg, fruit salad, and ice cream. All of this combined with their company made the best lunch experience so far. It really was trail magic! I'm so grateful they invited me to lunch, and I hope to see them more along the trail. They gave me a Coke for later along the trail, which has really become my addiction out here. Caffeine has helped me get through some tougher miles I might not have made it through otherwise. 

When we said our goodbyes, I headed down to the river for water. I was hesitant to fill up here since it was a heavily used area, the water was warm, and it had a funny smell to it. I didn't have much of an option since this was the last water for about 3 miles and I was completely dry. I took a break soaking my feet in the water and calling home. I then continued on for a few miles to the Minerva Hinchey shelter, where I stopped for a snack and replaced the river water I had collected. I had managed to make it the entire way without having to drink any of it, so I was a little relieved and drank down the cold, clean spring water happily. I had a climb up Bear Mountain and ran into a campsite with a group of NOBOs on the way down. The site belonged to Limpin' Eagle, who was away at the moment, but had left soda and hotdogs for passing hikers. I stopped, but quickly regretted it. The hikers were talking about how many chances I'll have to "party" in the south. It was incredibly annoying, especially considering the fact that I'm out here to hike, not party. They were also very critical of my plans to finish when I hope to, which I found a little out of line too. I left quickly, ready to distance myself from the negativity. I only had a mile and a half left to hike to the shelter, but it was all uphill. It started to rain with about 30 minutes left of hiking. I tried moving as quickly as possible, but it was pouring and I was drenched. I was happy to reach the shelter and find there was still room inside. There is one other person here, a guy out hiking the Long Trail named Morrison. He had arrived pretty early, trying to beat the rain in. He succeeded. I obviously did not. I was at least able to brush it off since the bad parts of the day were far outshined by the positive things that happened today. At least I am dry now with a roof over my head and a warm sleeping bag to cuddle up in. 

Governor Clement Shelter. The second oldest shelter on the trail. 

Stone fireplace inside the shelter

500 Miles!

Oh, sweet pine needles, how you make my day!

Awkward brook crossing


Suspension bridge over the river

Tree gateway


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