Day 42: Glencliff to Orford (NH 25A)

Today's Miles: 9.8

Total Miles: 408.5

It has been another day that didn't go exactly as planned, but I'm learning to accept it. I was woken again to the raindrops on my tent. I rolled my eyes and went back to sleep until 6:00. By that time the rain had stopped, so I started packing everything up, including my muddy tent. I remembered to check for damages from the bear the other morning and sure enough, there is now a tear about a half inch long where he ran over it. I'm so thankful it wasn't worse! I stayed for another great breakfast, bandaged up my blisters, and headed to the trail. I started just before 8:00 and was greeted by an immediate ascent. It wasn't terrible, but I was struggling with my feet that felt like cinder blocks. I came to a point where the trail split, and there were no signs marking which way to take. I took the trail to the left, and even though it was the wrong one, I didn't regret it. I ended up walking along the bank of a quiet and peaceful lake. I stopped to watch the loon swimming around and the heron before it flew away. I hoped I would see a moose but didn't have any luck there. There was a nice camping area with a fire pit and a rope swing that would have been a perfect place to spend the night. Unfortunately, I had to keep going. Just before reaching the top of the mountain, I stopped at a small viewpoint. I could hear dogs barking, so I figured there was a house down in the valley close by. After I returned to the trail, I heard something running through the woods in my direction. I looked and saw what I thought was a dog. After looking closer I realized it was a bear! He wasn't very big, just a little guy, but I guess the dogs were chasing him. He stopped about 10 feet from the trail, saw me, turned about 90 degrees, and ran off with the dogs in hot pursuit. I got out of there fast. At the top of the mountain, two NOBOs were taking a break. I asked if they saw the bear, but all they saw were the dogs. I don't know how I've had two close encounters with bears while some NOBOs haven't even seen 1 yet. 

I planned on stopping at Ore Hill Campsite for lunch, simply because I'd heard the privy there was pretty remarkable. It's the little things you appreciate out here! I stopped to talk to an older couple out section hiking just before stopping. They were trying to decide where they wanted to stay tonight, so I told them about the hostel. They gave me a lot of great information on people to get ahold of in Vermont for shuttles and places to stay, so it was great to hear that. I really know nothing about Vermont, so I appreciate whatever advice I can find. They asked if I just got out of school, which is a common question out here. When I said I just got out of the military, they were very appreciative and thanked my husband and me for our service. It means a lot when people show so much appreciation, and I don't think I could ever thank them enough for their support as well. I continued on to the campsite, and the privy was really nice! The Dartmouth Outing Club just finished it recently and made it look like a castle, "throne" and all. There used to be a shelter here, but it burned down a few years ago. The local rumor is that some guy got mad because he found out his wife was going out there to have an affair on him, so he decided to burn it down. Seems a little crazy, but I guess it's possible. 

Shortly after I stopped for lunch, I started to feel really sick. I didn't know if I was going to throw up or pass out. I had about a mile and a half left to the road, so I figured I would see how I felt when I got there. If that wasn't enough, it started to rain. I shouldn't have been surprised. When I got to 25A, I decided to stay at the Mount Cube Sugar Farm. I didn't think I could make it the 5 miles to the shelter and over Mount Cube with the way I was feeling. The farm was about 2 miles from the trailhead, but when I was about halfway there a car pulled over and I was offered a ride. It ended up being the caretaker of the farm, and it couldn't have been better timing. I was struggling at that point. He showed me around, and the first thing I did was lie down on the cot they had out. I took a short nap and finally got around to making dinner and looking around. This place is pretty neat. Apparently the original AT used to pass through here. They even have a picture of the current owner as a kid with Grandma Gatewood when she passed through. She was the first female to thru hike the AT. The current owner is really trying to keep that tradition alive by allowing current hikers to stay as well. I'm glad I got the experience to stay here. It reminds me of a field trip I took in 3rd grade where we walked down the road to a sugaring farm and learned how to tap maple trees and see how syrup was made. It looks like there's a lot of history in this place and possibly a few generations involved in its success. I hope a lot of others take advantage of the generosity offered here. Hopefully I will be feeling better in the morning and can make it a little further than today.  

400 miles today!

Heron in flight

Loon in the lake

Rope swing

Mount Mist view

New privy! It even had skylights. 

The throne

Finally found a salamander. I used to collect these in a bucket after it rained when I was a kid. 

The trail was a muddy mess today.

Mount Cube Sugar Farm

Corn field in front of Mount Cube

Old Sugar House

The farm's homemade pancake mix. 

Day 41: Glencliff - Hikers Welcome Hostel

Today's Miles: 0.0

Total Miles: 398.7

Today was my kind of expected zero day. I knew it was going to rain, and I knew if it rained I wasn't moving, so therefore I stayed put. It stinks to have to put in another zero so soon, but I need a break from the rain. With some easier terrain ahead, I should be able to make up some time. 

It was a pretty lazy day. It started with some delicious breakfast made by Legion. I've had more blueberry pancakes since I've been on the trail than I think I've had my entire life. Normally I don't even like pancakes, but being out here will cause you to eat almost anything. I took a nap afterwards just because I could. The rest of the day was filled with movies and just hanging around the hostel. Miss Janet made tacos for dinner, so we were able to have another great meal. It's always interesting to meet the other people staying at the hostels. There is a man here named Steamer who is hiking for Breast Cancer Awareness. He wears all pink and even dyed his hair hot pink. Honestly, he kind of resembles a troll doll. There's also a mother out here doing a flip-flop with her two daughters, ages 17 and 12. They've made it all the way from Virginia so far, and I find it amazing they're still going strong. I wish them luck! Back to hiking tomorrow! It's supposed to rain tomorrow afternoon, so I hope I can head out early enough to get to the shelter before it starts. 

I was able to catch up on some stuff while I was here, which was good. I filled out my first college application for next fall when we move to South Carolina! I guess I have to start figuring out the whole being a grown up thing all over again. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping I get accepted. That would be one less thing to worry about!

Everyone's so into Forest Gump!

30 people at the hostel means a lot of tenting in the backyard.   

Day 40: Kinsman Notch to Glencliff

Today's Miles: 9.3

Total Miles: 398.7

I was in no rush to head out of Lincoln this morning. I knew it would be a short day ending at a hostel in Glencliff, so I slept in until 7:00 and finally started getting ready. I packed everything up, ate some ice cream for breakfast, and waited for the Hikers Welcome Hostel to drop off some bags so Lentil and I could get a shuttle from them to the trailhead. They usually support slackpackers and will drop off gear from their place to Chet's. They were taking far too long, so we went ahead and called the Shuttle Connection instead. Of course, then the other one showed up, but it was Miss Janet who's in town right now. She is kind of a trail legend and is up here for the hiker bubble, providing shuttle services and what not. She is normally in Erwin, TN. She said it's something she started doing a few years ago, and it just kind of stuck after that. 

I finally made it to the trailhead around 9:30, and started the dreaded climb up Mount Moosilauke. The first 1.5 miles were very steep, but I was glad I was climbing up instead of going down it. It followed along waterfalls for this portion, so it was really beautiful. I was told by the NOBOs that after the shelter it would get much easier, so when I reached Beaver Brook Shelter I stopped for a snack break. The climb would have been much easier without a full pack and almost a week's worth of food. When I stopped, I talked to a father and son who were out for a few days and a Canadian family out for the day. They were both very interested in the hike and had a lot of questions about the AT. When I continued on, the trail smoothed out a great deal and the rest of the climb was enjoyable. The top of Moosilauke opened up to a mountaintop meadow, and it quickly became very cool. I sat behind a built-up rock wall so I could eat lunch shielded from the wind. This is it. The last mountain of the Whites at 4800 feet. I am happy to have another monumental section behind me and hope to be in Vermont by the end of the week. I took my time at the top, spending about an hour and enjoying the view, looking at where I've been this past week. There was a dark cloud overhead, and although it wasn't supposed to rain, I didn't want to take my chances. Funny moment of the day - I stopped to take a picture of a couple who were at the top with their German Shephard. The dog was standing on a rock in front of them when her back legs slid off the rock and she was left hugging the rocks. She just laid  there, still perfectly content. We all just laughed at the perfect timing of it. I continued down and towards Glencliff after. My feet were taking a beating on the descent since it was over 5 miles of all downhill. There were some very well maintained sections of trails, however. The trail today was maintained by the Dartmouth Outing Club, and it looks like they do a great job.

When I reached the road crossing for Glencliff, I turned to continue the half mile to the hostel. When I arrived, everyone was out back eating. Miss Janet had cooked up quite a feast, and I arrived at just the right time. All the bunks were taken, so I set up my tent out back for the night. I am perfectly ok with spending my time in there again tonight. Shortly after dinner, the ice cream was broken out. Nothing like a banana split at the end of the day! I'm sure I'll be sitting tight tomorrow. It's not the most ideal zero, but it is what it is I guess! 

Goodbye, Whites!

The warning sign at the start of the trail

Waterfalls all along the way

This is how close the trail was to the water at some points. I would hate to be there in the rain!

Mount Moosilauke Summit

The birdhouse on the side of Jeffers Brook Shelter

Banana splits!

Day 39: Franconia Notch to Kinsman Notch

Today's Miles: 16.3

Total Miles: 389.4

I decided to bite off probably a little bit more than I should have today and chose to follow through with the 16 mile slackpack between the two notches. I don't regret making the decision, simply because it's supposed to rain Tuesday, and I absolutely refuse to leave if it is. My last two experiences in the rain have been miserable, so if there is an opportunity to sit it out, I will definitely be taking advantage of it. The extra miles today will allow me to not feel so bad about some shorter days. 

The day started off beautifully with a gradual ascent to Lonesome Lake. There were a few brook crossings that I had been warned about because of the recent rains, but they had receded significantly in the last two days so I was able to rock hop across them. I stopped for a snack at the lake, which really is a very beautiful spot. I had hiked here with my brother a few years ago when I was home on leave, and I was looking forward to being back here. There were a lot of tourists, so I didn't want to hang out for too long. I continued on to the Kinsman Mountains, two more peaks above 4000 feet. The climb was rocky, but not too difficult. There was a beautiful view from North Kinsman on a small outlook, but the peak of South Kinsman was too crowded with day hikers. I kept going to another point, where I talked to a former thru hiker and section hiker, Bag Lady and Easy Does It. I recommended they stop for lunch there if they were planning to since the summit was so busy. There were some steep parts on the descent, but overall it wasn't a terrible climb down. It was much easier without the extra weight on my back forcing me down quicker. The trail followed Eliza Brook for almost a mile, which was really nice and had some  waterfalls along the way. I passed the NOBOs who were at Chet's as well, but slackpacking the other way just before Eliza Brook Shelter. I had to stop to tape up a blister forming on my heel. I really wonder if these blisters are ever going to quit. From there, I had a gradual ascent to Mount Wolf, which seemed to drag on forever. I was ready to be done at that point, but the trail wasn't ready for that I guess! There was't really a view on the top of the mountain, which is always a little upsetting. There was a lot of mud that hadn't dried out yet, and I had to spend a lot of time trying to dodge the giant mud puddles. After that, the miles passed in a blur. These are the miles I just get completely absorbed in my own thoughts and hope the time goes quick. When I knew I was close, I called for the shuttle and continued down to the road. I didn't have to wait too long, which was great seeing as it was already 6:30 at that point. I finished the 16 miles in about 9 and a half hours, so I was pretty happy about that. I was too lazy to go to town for dinner, so I just ate frozen yogurt for dinner (banana peanut butter - delicious!) and called Payce after a hot shower. It's always nice to have a shower after a long day of hiking. The other hikers haven't arrived back yet, so I hope they're ok! Tomorrow it will back to reality of hiking with full pack weight, but I'll be climbing the last mountain of the Whites. Can't wait! 

Crossing under the highway

Cascade Brook

Lonesome Lake

These things should exist everywhere!

The view from North Kinsman

South Kinsman view

Eliza Brook falls

Day 38: Lincoln - Chet's Place

Today's Miles: 0.0

Total Miles: 373.1

It was great to sleep in a real bed and not wake up with a bunch of other smelly hikers surrounding me. I woke up too early, so I spent the time soaking my feet and catching up on the news. It's amazing everything I miss being out here! I left Franconia to head to Chet's in Lincoln, something slightly more affordable. He accepts donations or WFS, so I donated a little to camp in his backyard for 2 nights. Icepack and Ziploc are here. Most of the others are NOBOs. I think there are some people here who may never leave. I finished resupplying and did laundry, all the necessary zero day tasks. They always make the day go by too fast. I will be slackpacking tomorrow to Kinsman Notch, and it will be nice to put in a reasonable amount of miles. 

Buy One Get One Free Ben & Jerry's??? Am I in heaven?

Day 37: Garfield Ridge Campsite to Franconia Notch

Today's Miles: 10.3

Total Miles: 373.1

The thunder was clapping overhead and the lightning lit up my tent in the early morning hours. I tried to force myself to go back to sleep, hoping that I wouldn't end up struck by lightning on the open tent platform. It was around 4:00. I intended on getting up early so I could head into town and meet Jamie for dinner, who would be coming up to visit. I slept fitfully, waiting for the remainder of the storm to pass, only to be startled awake by something running over the corner of my tent and pulling up a stake. I was trying to convince myself that maybe someone's dog was just running around and happened to run right by me. I was too afraid to get out and see what it was. After a few minutes had passed, I started gathering my things and packing up. When I headed to the bear box to get my food, I saw Icepack sitting at the shelter. I called over to him, and he started to head over, surprised to see me there. "Did you see the bear this morning?" was the first question I was asked. So that's what woke me up this morning!? It was a bear plowing by me after being chased around the campsite by the caretaker with an ax. He had been causing trouble, flipping over the bear box in search of food. Apparently he had been making his rounds around other sites as well. He ran less than a foot away from my head. Any closer and I could have been trampled. I walked down to the water so I could have breakfast, just shaking my head at all the happenings already. It was too early for all of this. To top it off, it was still raining too. I finished eating and started off for the day. I had to start with a climb up Mount Garfield, back down about 400 feet and up to Mount Lafayette at almost 5300 feet. About an hour into the hike, it started to pour. Of course, because why wouldn't a black cloud be following me? The entire trail became either a stream or a puddle, and it became senseless to attempt avoiding it. This continued on for the rest of the day. I started the climb up Mount Lafayette and was quickly above treeline. I realized soon after that this was the worst decision I could have made. The wind gusts were incredible, there was no where to go if a thunderstorm moved in, and the rain turned into hail. Every time I thought I had reached the summit, I could see another dark taller outline looming in the distance. There was absolutely no visibility, so if it wasn't right in front of me I couldn't see it. I was elated when I saw the sign where the trail split, knowing that I was at least at the top at that point. I still had the entire Franconia Ridge to go, however. The wind was gusting so hard that I lost my balance a few times and had to crouch behind rocks to shield myself. This would also be the day the trail decided to go over each and every summit, unlike the last few days. I had Mount Lincoln, Little Haystack and a few other small climbs in between. I kept looking to the left and right in case I needed to find an escape to the trees down below. It was about 4 miles being above treeline and along the ridge, and when I could see trees start to appear in front of me I was ecstatic. At least it would be pretty much all downhill from there. The rest of the day passed in a blur. I passed some NOBOs who gave me the information on how to get into town. I thanked them and continued on. When I got to the trailhead, I still had a mile to go to get to the parking lot where I could be picked up. It was a little upsetting to hear, but at that point what's another mile? I decided to go to the Flume Visitor Center so I would at least be inside and sheltered from the rain. I called every hotel in North Woodstock and Franconia Notch. Everything was booked. I finally found a room at the Gale River Motel, which was a little out of the way, but the owner picked me up. It was definitely worth it. He felt bad about the day I had, and even gave me a discount. I took the longest shower as soon as I got in and hung up my tent and sleeping bag to dry since everything was pretty well drenched. I waited for Jamie and her family to arrive, and it was nice to be able to just lay on a bed and relax. We ended up going to Applebee's in Littleton, the next town over, and it was nice to have vegetables! It was great to be able to see a friend and definitely gave me something to look forward to on such an interesting and long day. Thank you so much for coming to visit and treating me to dinner! I think I'll be sleeping well tonight, that's for sure. 

Where there once was a trail

Again, the trail became a waterfall

Taking the day one cairn at a time

This is about how incredible my visibility was today!

Day 36: Ethan Pond Campsite to Garfield Ridge Campsite

Today's Miles: 14.5

Total Miles: 362.8

I was woken up last night just before 11:00 to the sound of rain drops landing on my tent. I should have known this was going to happen. I jumped out of my sleeping bag and grabbed my clothes hanging on the line outside, although maybe a good shower would have done them some good. I slept in this morning, dreading getting out into the rain like I usually do. I just despise packing everything up when it's all soaking wet and adds about 5 more pounds to my pack. I'm actually pretty sure the thing that got me moving was the fact that I kept catching a whiff of my hiker stink, and it was driving me crazy. There have been several people the last few days who have been surprised when I say I'm a thru hiker. They say I look too neat and clean. Maybe it's because I'm wearing pants so they can't see my excessive amount of leg hair, or it's because they're upwind and don't have the odor to judge it off of. I didn't start hiking until 9:00 this morning, knowing that I might arrive at camp a little later than I would like, but still with plenty of daylight left. It wasn't supposed to be too hard of a day anyway. The first 5 miles to Zealand Falls Hut were beautiful. I decided to take the side trail to look at the falls, but encountered a pretty awkward situation. There was a hiker beside the trail pooping, not in the woods or anything. I don't think he saw me until he went to stand up, but I had spun right back around and hightailed it out of there. There was a hut with a bathroom not even a tenth of a mile away. I have no idea what this guy was thinking. I continued to the hut as quickly as I could, just as the sun was coming out. I took the opportunity to take off my shoes and socks while I ate so they could dry from some of the morning's walk. I also had to rebandage my blisters since they had slid off when my socks got wet. The trail continued uphill for a while after the hut, but it started to cloud over. I didn't have any other views because I was stuck walking through clouds the rest of the day. I was crossing my fingers and hoping the thunderstorms that were forecasted would hold off while I was going over the open top of Guyot Mountain. Thankfully, the rains did hold off. I considered stopping at Galehead Hut to see if they had work for stay, but I wanted to get as many miles done as I could so heading into town tomorrow would be shorter. About a mile and a half past the hut, I passed a young hiker who was probably in his teens. He had gotten separated from his family and took a wrong trail. His family was already at the hut, but he had two packs since he had offered to carry his brother's as well. He wasn't doing well and had no food or water. I gave him the water I had and a Clif Bar and tried to call his family. He said he thought he could continue on, so I kept going to the campsite. At this point, it was starting to get dark. This is my other biggest fear beside thunderstorms. I was racing to the site, but it was a steep, rocky uphill so I could only go so fast. My headlamp was pretty ineffective since he was just reflecting off the fog all around. When I finally got here I asked the caretaker if he had heard anything about the hiker since he had a radio. He said the boy had been found and was doing alright. I was glad to hear that. I planned on staying in the shelter, but it was pretty full and everyone  was already asleep. I headed to a platform to set up my tent and start on dinner. Another couple came in shortly after I did, and they looked like they were in rough shape too. I made dinner and washed up before getting ready for bed. It's after 10:00 and way past my bedtime!

PLEASE, if you are planning on hiking, know your limitations and the area you are hiking. Make sure you have someone to hike with if possible, especially if you are unfamiliar with the area. And ALWAYS be prepared for an emergency. Nature is unpredictable. You never know what it might throw your way. 

Zeacliff

Zealand Falls

Mount Guyot

In a cloud

Spiderweb covered in rain drops