Day 71: West Mountain Shelter to Fingerboard Shelter

Today's Miles: 8.4

Total Miles: 801.9

A thunderstorm was passing overhead when I woke up this morning. The bright city skyline that lit up the sky last night was concealed by an overcast sky. The storm passed quickly, but I was still reluctant to leave because I could still hear thunder all around. The weather forecast wasn't looking the greatest either with a guarantee of thunderstorms for a good part of the day. I considered zeroing on West Mountain, but with no water supply it wouldn't have been the best decision. 

Shortly after heading out on to the trail, I passed a group of very friendly day hikers. They were talking about whether or not they would see a thru hiker today, and I was the first one they came across. The day hikers are usually so happy and help make the not so good days a little better by giving a different perspective. I stopped at the first brook, which was barely flowing, to fill up on water. Water is getting more and more difficult to find. Before climbing Black Mountain, I had to cross Palisades Parkway, a 4 lane highway with an AT register in the middle section. It was a tricky crossing, and I think I was holding my breath and hoping for the best as I bolted across. There weren't really any views from Black Mountain, and I tried to make my way down quickly to the next shelter since it felt like another storm was moving in. 

I decided to stop for lunch at the next shelter. I was contemplating staying there since I was really struggling today. It seemed like every climb was almost impossible as I trudged slowly along. It can probably be contributed to the heat from yesterday. Today is cooler but still humid. A few section hikers timed their lunch stop at the shelter too just before another thunderstorm passed by, so we all sat and talked while we waited it out. I decided to continue on to Fingerboard Shelter a few more miles away, hoping to beat the next storm. I was feeling a little bit more energized after eating lunch. It would make for a short day, but I didn't feel like taking more of a chance than that. I made it there fairly quickly, and it was still pretty early in the day. Free Range, a section hiker, and Chicory, another SOBO, are staying here as well. I timed my arrival well because it started to pour and thunder maybe 45 minutes after I got there. I was happy to be covered and dry. Another storm is passing through, and this one brought all kinds of wind. It's blowing all the trees around, and I can feel some rain drops being blown into the shelter. Sometimes I forget that some of these shelters have been standing for at least 80 years, and I really don't have to worry about their stability in a bad storm. 

Day 70: Graymoor Spiritual Life Center to West Mountain Shelter

Today's Miles: 13.4

Total Miles: 793.5

What a day. I was driven into my tent late last night after I decided I could no longer stand the bugs. This made for a restless night and a late start this morning. It was already hot when I headed out, so I stopped at the gas station at the road crossing. This crossing was pretty terrible, and there wasn't a crosswalk around anywhere. I made a dash and hoped for the best. I went inside the store for a cold Gatorade and a sandwich for later. 

The uphills at the start of today, although not long, were pretty difficult. It was about 90 degrees, but the heat index was above 100. Pretty miserable for hiking. I'm pretty sure if I stopped I would have been quickly standing in a puddle of my own sweat. I had a descent over some loose rocks and dirts and managed to make it down after only slipping once. There was a small road walk before crossing Bear Mountain Bridge that passed over the Hudson River. I then headed into the zoo that the trail passes right through. There were a few animal exhibits, and the bear cage is the lowest point on the entire AT. Sadly, I spent the majority of my time in the shade by the vending machines instead of in the zoo. I had some ice cream and lemonade in hopes of cooling myself down some. I continued on to walk around Hessian Lake, where I stopped to watch a flock of Canadian geese head into the water. Then it was the dreaded climb up Bear Mountain. I was quickly relieved when I realized the majority of the climb up would be incredible rock stairs. It made for a much easier climb in the late afternoon heat. This is another mountain with road access at the top, so I didn't want to spend too much time. I climbed to the top of the tower, but I was dismayed to find that I couldn't see the New York City skyline. There was an air quality warning in effect today, and it made for some limited visibility. I continued on since I still had another mountain to climb, and it was getting late. I raced down Bear Mountain and on to West Mountain, where I was going to the shelter 0.6 miles from the trail. Normally I wouldn't choose to be that far off, but there is a chance of thunderstorms tonight so I don't want to be stuck on the open mountaintop in that fun. It was starting to get dark as I reached the blue blazed trail leading to the shelter. It wasn't marked, so I took my chances and hoped it would lead me to it. Thankfully it did, and as I walked up I could see the New York City skyline illuminating the night sky in front of me. It was incredible, and to be able to witness something so incredible on such an important day (the anniversary of 9/11) was pretty monumental. I set up my tent inside the shelter to avoid the bugs since I'm the only one here tonight. Hopefully it will keep out the cockroaches that I saw scuttling into the cracks when I first shined my light inside. 

That good New York water...

Hudson River

Better to see them in a cage than on the trail!

My stars - the New York City Skyline

Day 69: Shenandoah Tenting Area to Graymoor Spiritual Life Center

Today's Miles: 17.5

Total Miles: 780.1

I was feeling so exhausted this morning, so I waited around camp until about 9:30. It was nice to sleep in a little and relax. Some of the longer days are really taking a toll on me, and there was a chance of rain this morning so I was trying to avoid it. It made for a very humid day, which are always so miserable out here. 

I had to start with a climb up Shenandoah Mountain, which was pretty quick since I had ascended most of it yesterday. It was really overcast, so there wasn't much of a view. There was an American flag painted at the top in memory of 9/11. I reached down to touch it for a moment, almost forgetting that today is the 10th, and tomorrow will be the 12 year anniversary of the attacks. It's very easy to lose track of the days out here. It's amazing to think of all that has happened in that amount of time, from being in 7th grade hearing the news, to choosing to serve in the military for 6 years, and now finding myself out here. It's all been such an incredible sequence of events and I don't know that I would change it for anything. 

The rain held off for the most part, minus a few sprinkles, throughout the day, and I was determined to make it to Graymoor since they offered a shower. I felt pretty disgusting after all the stickiness and sweat all day, so this sounded incredible. The rest of the hiking was very rocky and more small ups and downs. My feet were not happy and I was feeling sluggish. The water in New York is proving to be pretty terrible, so I was elated when I saw a sign for water on the side of a building by a road. The clouds started to clear some, and the last few miles and hills started to display deer everywhere. I saw 16 before I made it to Graymoor. The bugs came back out though, and I was bit bu a crab spider after brushing past a branch. The black flies wouldn't be so bad if they didn't have an incredible ability to fly directly into my eyes. They can be a little tricky to dig out.

When I got to the ball field I found HJ already there. The area that hikers are allowed to stay at is neat. It's an open field with a covered area that hikers can stay in. There's a small shower, and even though there's no hot water, it's still a great feeling to be able to wash off at the end of the day. This whole thing is at a Franciscan Monestary, and the friars have been letting hikers stay since 1972. It's pretty neat, and I'm glad I got to experience it. 

When I arrived, HJ offered to go to the store if I watched his things. I agreed, and he picked me up dinner in return. I was able to shower and clean up in the meantime, but I know it won't last long tomorrow since its supposed to be pretty warm. I laid my sleeping bag out on a picnic table, where I hope to stay away from the creepy crawlers tonight. 

Potable water sign - a beautiful sight!

Ball field shelter at Graymoor

Day 68: Telephone Pioneers Shelter to Shenandoah Tenting Area

Today's Miles: 18.1

Total Miles: 762.6

There's nothing quite like having a train blowing its whistle a hundred times to wake you up in the morning. It was a bit of a chilly start, but it usually makes for better hiking weather later in the day so I didn't mind too much. I can't say my hips felt the same as they are not as fond of the colder weather and take some time to warm up. I was the first one out of the site and on the trail this morning. It was a quiet morning, but the excitement quickly picked up. I stopped to watch a deer as it ran across the trail in front of me. I thought I heard another one behind me, so I turned towards the sound only to find a GIANT black bear standing right in the middle of the trail staring at me. This one was easily twice the size of the last one I saw. I started banging my poles together to scare it away, and it made its way back into the woods. He would go a little ways, turn back to watch me until I made more noise, go a little further, and repeat the process. Some of the other hikers passed by shortly after when I stopped for a break, but they didn't see him anywhere after that. I just kept thinking, "I hope he doesn't like pop tarts!" as I sat on a rock scarfing one down. 

The rest of the morning was pretty uneventful. I had a walk around Nuclear Lake, a bit of an odd name if you ask me, and some flat areas to hike through. There are a lot of little ups and downs, which can get pretty tiring after awhile. I decided to head to the pizzeria and store, again about a half mile off the trail in Stormville. I was hoping I would be able to charge things a bit, but all the outlets were taped up, much to my dismay. I was at least able to resupply on snacks, and I know Payce will roll his eyes when he reads that. I've been too tired to cook dinner for the last few nights, so I've just been snacking on things here and there. I do the same thing at home a lot and would probably never eat dinner if he didn't cook, and I guess I'm surprised I cooked dinner every night for so long! The Puppy Pack, another group of SOBOs I met earlier, and Goatman and Jubilee were all heading that way too. They were staying at the RPH Shelter tonight, but I was planning on moving on to the next campsite. I saw another 2 deer, a woodchuck, and a fox all in the last few miles of the hike. An interesting day for wildlife spottings, I guess. I stopped at the shelter to fill up on water and talk to everyone there for a few minutes before continuing on, a little glad I wouldn't be so close to a road. I could hear road noise for the majority of the day, so I really didn't want to be by it all night too. I only had about a mile and a half until camp, and it passed quickly. I was glad I chose this campsite because it was actually really pretty. It was all grass, very flat, and very well maintained. It couldn't have been more perfect, and I know I will be sleeping well here tonight. There were noticeably fewer mosquitoes and black flies today, so maybe the cold weather will continue to keep them away.

The bear staring at me through the trees

Nuclear Lake

This wasp nest was bigger than my head.

Art by local 6th graders illustrating what can be found on the trail

I wonder who this is directed at...

RPH Shelter

My beautiful tentsite tonight. It even has apple trees behind it. 

Day 67: Schaghticoke Campsite to Telephone Pioneers Shelter

Today's Miles: 18.2

Total Miles: 744.5

So I didn't end up being at the campsite alone last night after all. It started to rain just before I got ready to go to sleep, and I could see the headlamp of another hiker as he looked for a place to set up. I would later learn this was Squared Away, the brother of Woody who I met in Maine.

I was glad to see my food bag still in place when I got up this morning. Thanks, raccoons, for not stealing all my food. I headed out of camp and was happy to know I was crossing the state line into New York. It didn't last too long since I was back in CT shortly after, but it's still a pretty big deal. I met a day hiker named Mark who was out with his dog. He was nice enough to bring a hand saw out with him to cut a tree that had fallen across the trail. He said he walks this trail a lot, and this is not the first time he's done this. Thanks for your unofficial trail maintenance, Mark! I saw two deer as I descended down to Bull Bridge Road, which was a nice surprise. I decided to walk the half mile or so to the store down the road. It was nice to have orange juice and ice cream, and I was able to grab something for lunch later. Definitely a good decision. I met Squared Away at the Ten Mile River Shelter when I stopped for a break, as well as a guy who was hiking in the area for a few days. Shortly after, I crossed into New York for good. The trail hasn't been too bad so far. I had some pretty flat areas to hike through, and I passed the train station right on the trail that heads to NYC. There was a nice walk through a field, where I was able to sit and watch hundreds of white and yellow butterflies fluttering by. There was also a hummingbird flying in and out of some flowers, which I think might be the first one I've really seen in the wild and not at a bird feeder. At the next road crossing, I passed by what is supposed to be the largest oak tree on the trail called the Dover Oak. I stopped at a house that offers water to hikers a little down the road since the next shelter showed an unreliable source. I was really glad I did because the stream that was supposed to be the water supply here was terrible. I was happy to see some more SOBOs when I made it up to the shelter. Goatman and Jubilee are here, some of the first people I met on the trail in Maine, as well as Pabst and HJ. I pitched my tent, grabbed a quick snack, and am headed to bed. Everyone else is still out by the fire, but I'm just too tired to join in. 

Day 66: Caesar Brook Campsite to Schaghticoke Mountain Campsite

Today's Miles: 17.0

Total Miles: 726.3

I tried to do as much as I could this morning while still curled up in my sleeping bag. I headed out before everyone else, just trying to get moving so I could warm up. There were some hills to start off with, which helped warm me up quickly. I had to pass a brook and a road, but of course went the wrong way at the road crossing. I saw a blazed trail to the left, so I decided to follow that. Apparently this was the bypass trail for the brook. I learned this after going about a half mile, so I made my way back to figure out where the trail really went. I saw Crunchmaster by the trailhead, and he said they had done the same thing. They just figured out before making it that far down. This always messes me up for the rest of the day, and I was in that weird mental jam the remainder of it.

There was another walk along the river, a flat section for about 5 miles. It made my feet pretty tired, so I found a beach to take a lunch break at and soaked my feet in the water. There were a lot of people out, being the weekend and an absolutely beautiful day. After the river, I had a very steep rock scramble up towards St. Johns Ledges. It was difficult, but a little fun and equally distracting. I still had a few hills to climb, and it was getting pretty late. I wanted to make it past the New York border, but decided to stop at the campsite a mile before. I would have night hiked if I could have caught up to everyone else, but I decided this would be the best option. Good thing, because I ended up rolling my ankle and falling with most of my weight on my foot. No bueno. I saw 3 raccoons about a mile before making it to the campsite. They all ran up a tree and stared at me with their masked eyes as I passed by. I'm hoping they stay where they are and leave my food alone tonight. The campsite is quiet, and I'm the only one here right now. 

Day 65: Salisbury to Caesar Brook Campsite

Today's Miles: 19.7

Total Miles: 709.3

Oh, how difficult it was to climb out from underneath my warm cocoon of blankets at Maria's this morning. I couldn't help but think, "Maybe just a little bit longer..." But the trail was calling, and I knew I had to continue on. 

After a great breakfast, I walked the half mile back to the trail. It was still only 40 degrees when I made my way outside. Milkrun and Cerveza were stealth camped near the road but were still asleep when I passed. I had an immediate climb up Giants Thumb, where I saw a deer pass in front of me, and was soon greeted with a view of a beautiful open field with the mountains behind it. I stopped to take a break, and Crunchmaster, Milkrun, and Cerveza passed by shortly after. It was too cold, so I continued on. 

I spent some time walking along the Housatonic River today. The trail had some weird twists and turns, and in some parts it seemed like every white blaze was a double blaze signifying a change in direction. There were some roads, but the CT trail maintainers are pretty good about posting a map anytime there's a road walk so it limits the chances of me getting lost. There were a lot of ups and downs, nothing too significant but enough to make me tired. I was planning on continuing on to Silver Hill Campsite, which was another 3.4 miles, but decided to stay at Caesar Campsite because there would have been another 3 climbs. It worked out well. The other 3 are staying here as well, but I'm already curled up in my sleeping bag since its going to be another cold night tonight.